The Carretera Austral (parts)

Los Lagos and Aysén del General Carlos Ibáñez del Campo regions, Chile


We can’t hide it, our last experience in Chile didn’t make us overwhelmed to go back to Chile. Already we knew that we’ll miss pastries and good bread, cheaper food and more courteous drivers. But anyhow, we can’t miss the famous Carretera Austral that I heard about since I started this trip in Canada. At least, the summer holiday period is over, so we can hope for less people on the road. More and more people, including cyclists due north, tell us when they learn that we are going to Ushuaia that we are a little bit late: “it freezes at night sometimes” or “oh! it snowed up there a few days ago (in the mountains)”; in short some stuff to cheer us up.

The three first days will be done without Guillermo. Some people that I traveled with further north and passed by here a few weeks ago told me that a good segment was in horrible construction, very rocky and totally demoralizing. Continue reading

Seven lakes, seven other lakes and some other lakes

La Araucania and Los Ríos regions, Chile ; Neuquén, Río Negro and Chubut provinces, Argentina.

volcan Villarrica

Lakes. That’s what we’ll see in the next three weeks. Binational journey that will let us bitter on one side, surprised on the other one.

There aren’t as much elsewhere in South America, but we can find them even in small towns in Chile and in Argentina: tourist information offices. But it seems that we won’t learn : always doubt about what they are saying. Just an example: in Melipeuco, on the second day back in Chile, I have the courage to disturb the tourist info lady chit-chatting with her friend outside to ask on the best way to reach Villarrica. Her colleague is more interested to take our datas for his stats than answering our questions. They eventually show a different way than the one I thought (going beside Colico lake), telling me that the other road is totally paved to Villarrica. Really? Maybe we can take this road to get there faster. Mistake! Continue reading