Report: Peru

IMG_5004I spent more than two months in Peru, almost as much as in Mexico, United State or Canada. I haven’t take the straight line though to cross the country. While I was thinking wandering in the mountains from North to South on Ruta 3, I finally diverged to a high pass, then down the coast, to go back in the mountains.

If mountains are slowing things down, illness as well. From intestinal problems that seems to be the norm to cyclotourist met on the road, I went all the way to anemia.

Peru is extremes, from laugh to tears, from amazement to disgust, from sweat to shivers, from genuine encounters to the ones you want to forget.

To paraphrase a solo cyclotourist which whom I was talking to about our experiences, Continue reading

Peruvian chronicles (5) : Transit


From vicunas to insects

The mountain is calling me back, after those quite flat few hundred kilometers. The return will be drastic, climbing 3.500 meters in less than a hundred kilometers. The slope is smooth, but without stopping climbing. It will take me two days, cheered up by motorcycle travelers going to Cusco. I try not to think too much about the fact that they’ll make the distance in two short days while I’ll take nine days. However, I’ll be able to Continue reading

Peruvian chronicles (4) : Coast

Playa roja Paracas

The paraca in Paracas

My two feet in the chilly Pacific, I’m trying not to think about the fact that I’ll have 3.000 meters to climb back up to go back in the Andes. Passing, in a day and a half, from 5.000 meters elevation to zero was a pleasure that I’ll probably be able to do only once. It’s in Paracas that I get comfortable in an almost empty youth hostel. A few souls are wondering around in this touristic town south of Pisco, which maybe in some other time of the year is overcrowded. The air is dry and in the afternoon, a wind from the South named “paraca” sometimes brings gusts full of sand. This sand comes from Paracas National Reserve (I try not to repeat myself, but it’s like that), where I’ll go wandering around in the end of a rest day to enjoy the sunset in a desert-by-the-sea setting. It changes from the mountain let’s say…

I see on the map I’ve been given entering the Reserve that it is possible to go through small roads to get to Ica, my next destination, instead of going on the Panamerican. Continue reading