Pampa glacier pampa

Santa Cruz province, Argentina

Pampa Santa Cruz

Crossing the border on the northern shore of General Carrera/Buenos Aires was done under the astonished eyes of the policemen seeing a foreigner passing by here; at the point that they were wandering what to do with my passport (and moreover my reciprocity fee receipt, a kind of no-paperwork-no-refusal visa for Canadians, United Statians and Australians) in the uncomputerized office. It seems that they are more used to lift the barrier to Chilean and Argentinian cowboys living in the surroundings. Despite that, I get my stamp quickly enough and here I am back on the dirt road. If it’s always the same lake on my right, it’s an other landscape that’s unroll in front of my eyes. As we can see on a satellite view of the lake, the border has been drawn where the mountains straightly stops. The pampa stretches out on the Argentinian side. Pushed by a good wind, I’ll arrived quickly to Perito Moreno even through the big rocks and sand.

Guillermo and Christian crossed the border on the South shore of the lake, after taking the ferry between Puerto Ibañez and Chile Chico. The border is more used to tourists than the one I took, but getting into Argentina never had been a huge problem anyway. However this time, they had the chance of being “chosen” by a custom agent trainer to show to the public servants there how to do a work respecting every norms and procedures. Two hours of over-zealousness later, Guillermo and Christian split in the Argentinian town of Los Antiguos. Christian will take a dirt road along the border while Guillermo will make the last 60 kilometers to Perito Moreno, where I’ll meet him at a Warmshowers’ host.

Let’s demystify Perito Moreno. Santa Cruz province counts Perito Moreno National Park, Perito Moreno glacier, which is not Continue reading

Seven lakes, seven other lakes and some other lakes

La Araucania and Los Ríos regions, Chile ; Neuquén, Río Negro and Chubut provinces, Argentina.

volcan Villarrica

Lakes. That’s what we’ll see in the next three weeks. Binational journey that will let us bitter on one side, surprised on the other one.

There aren’t as much elsewhere in South America, but we can find them even in small towns in Chile and in Argentina: tourist information offices. But it seems that we won’t learn : always doubt about what they are saying. Just an example: in Melipeuco, on the second day back in Chile, I have the courage to disturb the tourist info lady chit-chatting with her friend outside to ask on the best way to reach Villarrica. Her colleague is more interested to take our datas for his stats than answering our questions. They eventually show a different way than the one I thought (going beside Colico lake), telling me that the other road is totally paved to Villarrica. Really? Maybe we can take this road to get there faster. Mistake! Continue reading