The last stretch

Magallanes y Antártica Chilena region, Chile; Tierra del Fuego, Antártida e Islas del Atlántico Sur province, Argentina

A Ushuaia

It won’t be a surprise to know that we’ll arrive to Ushuaia at the end of this article. But the ten days to get there from Puerto Natales still worth a few good mentions.

If before, on the Argentinian side, the afternoons were still not too cold, here on the Chilean side by the sea, it’s cold and humid all day long. Sleeping without a shelter isn’t an option. The 250 kilometers between Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas were made in three days, sleeping under a barn beside the police station in Morro Chico and inside an abandoned house on the second night. It was a horror movie setting, but anyway, the two of us got over the fear that the owner’s ghost (or the bird’s one, dead on the kitchen table) come to haunt us in our sleep. Once, for a few minutes, snow flakes fall in the glacial wind. In Punta Arenas, I saw an email from travel friends that just arrived in Ushuaia, going through a snow storm as an arrival gift. This bodes well.  Continue reading

Pampa glacier pampa

Santa Cruz province, Argentina

Pampa Santa Cruz

Crossing the border on the northern shore of General Carrera/Buenos Aires was done under the astonished eyes of the policemen seeing a foreigner passing by here; at the point that they were wandering what to do with my passport (and moreover my reciprocity fee receipt, a kind of no-paperwork-no-refusal visa for Canadians, United Statians and Australians) in the uncomputerized office. It seems that they are more used to lift the barrier to Chilean and Argentinian cowboys living in the surroundings. Despite that, I get my stamp quickly enough and here I am back on the dirt road. If it’s always the same lake on my right, it’s an other landscape that’s unroll in front of my eyes. As we can see on a satellite view of the lake, the border has been drawn where the mountains straightly stops. The pampa stretches out on the Argentinian side. Pushed by a good wind, I’ll arrived quickly to Perito Moreno even through the big rocks and sand.

Guillermo and Christian crossed the border on the South shore of the lake, after taking the ferry between Puerto Ibañez and Chile Chico. The border is more used to tourists than the one I took, but getting into Argentina never had been a huge problem anyway. However this time, they had the chance of being “chosen” by a custom agent trainer to show to the public servants there how to do a work respecting every norms and procedures. Two hours of over-zealousness later, Guillermo and Christian split in the Argentinian town of Los Antiguos. Christian will take a dirt road along the border while Guillermo will make the last 60 kilometers to Perito Moreno, where I’ll meet him at a Warmshowers’ host.

Let’s demystify Perito Moreno. Santa Cruz province counts Perito Moreno National Park, Perito Moreno glacier, which is not Continue reading